Merrie Olde England
What the hell am I doing here!? It's cold. It's expensive. And, I'm dressed inappropriately. It's a bit early to be forming stereotypes, but so far people here seem extremely quiet and subdued, especially when coming from the constant social hubbub that occurs whenever you gather a group of people in Africa. I don't fit in either. As further evidence I'm no longer in Africa, everyone dresses in really dark neutral colors. I'm wearing a bright blue striped golf-shirt which seems to scream "TOURIST!" It's even worse when I open my mouth and hear how American I sound. (I had somehow forgotten this in South Africa.) Fortunately, they don't seem to hate Americans unlike the rest of the planet.
It's a bit of a letdown. They listen to the same garbage here that they listen to everywhere else. There's a reality show where they've taken a bunch of R&B and hip-hop wannabe's to the US to learn how to rap and sing from authentic Americans. But, it's really hard to take the rapper guy seriously when he tries to act hardcore and at the same time speak the queen's English. Quite a few of the TV shows are American. They even watch a version of brain-numbing American wrestling, complete with spandexed macho men and macho women. Nearly all the movies at the DVD store seem to be American as well.
I expected Britons to be polite. And they really are. They're apologetic when not knowing the answers to my questions. I don't mean to come off as an ungrateful guest. People have been kind and helpful. No one has tried to involve me into a legendary English pub brawl. It's just that... As far I can tell, I don't belong here. To be fair, I still haven't seen London.
Really I'm here on business, meaning I'm not here to explore. I think they got sick of me screwing things up in South Africa. Africa's got enough problems, so they decided to unleash me on Europe. I've only arrived this morning in Saint Albans. Saint Albans is a 20-minute train ride to London, but from what I can tell it might as well be in Montana. All the staff I've spoken to at the hotel said they don't hang out here and go to London if they want to have fun. My plans are to go to an authentic English pub and drink beer and smoke cigarettes that cost five times what they do in South Africa. I thought I might like to flirt with an English rose, but as I walked through town a group of female joggers clad in lycra shorts, which did nothing to hide their hideous bottoms, made me want to return to South Africa that much sooner.
You may have assumed this is an English-speaking country, but somehow I keep having to ask people to repeat themselves. They really don't make much sense. I know people like to say Americans don't really speak English, but I'm not convinced these guys do either. Everybody sounds like they're from a Harry Potter movie. I was in the cab on the way to the hotel chatting to the driver, Chris, an old guy that's lived in London his entire life:
Me: "Hey man, can I bum a cigarette from you?"
Chris: "Look inna compa'tment theh. Ye hafta roll it yesef. Ye ekay wi thet?"
Me: "That's no problem - I used to smoke a lot of weed."
Chris: "Mmm... Ye kin tell."
I'm still not sure what he meant by that. Anyways, notice how when I speak it's spelled properly, and when he speaks it's a grade school phonetic spelling? It's because English people don't know how to speak English.
More than the language, there's something else different as well. I was strolling through the town square for a bit when I noticed that everyone was standing motionless as if everyone had agreed to play a game, and the leader said "Simon says 'freeze'!" I looked around obviously confused and saw a man glancing at me with a slight smile. I walked towards him and asked, "What's going on?"
He laughed. "They're having a moment of silence for dead war veterans." Or maybe they didn't have to be dead, I don't remember. Anyways, it was surreal. I can't imagine trying to get everybody in South Africa to stand still and shut up at the same time. It wouldn't last for 5 seconds before someone got bored saying it was stupid. But in England this was a national phenomenon. When I got back to the hotel room, they showed replays of the same scene on TV from across the entire island. There were sombre parades just like the one I had seen.
So that's what I've experienced in England. It turns out it'll cost 10 pound to get a ticket that lets me take the train all day in London, but that's a lot of money when I don't have the time or luxury to just bum around. I do have to work in the morning.
I can't wait to get to London...
"Just because your voice reaches halfway around the world doesn't mean you are wiser than when it reached only to the end of the bar." - Edward R. Murrow
By the way, I know it's been a while... If you actually read this - thanks! I've been meaning to write about the prostitutes of Dar es Salaam and my safari with a socialite in the Serengeti, but it will have to wait.
Cheers!
















