
Communist Doorbells
I've found myself in Vác, Hungary. Marton tells me it's populated by working-class communist alcoholics. It's very quaint - old buildings, old drunk men, and backwards toilets shaped in such a way that before you flush you're forced to see what you've most recently digested.
Actually, it reminds me a lot of South Africa. Everybody gets really drunk - the pubs open at 6:30 in the morning. The kids love hip-hop, or "heep hope" as they pronounce it here. One boy plopped one of the earphones to his iPod in my ear so I could check his street cred, and we rapped Tupac lyrics together. I'm pretty sure I got more of them right than he did. The women aren't as hairy as I thought they'd be. Actually, they're not hairy at all and quite a few of them are very pretty. One boy in Club Mausoleum asked what I thought of Hungarian women. Marton had already warned me that lots of Hungarians would ask me what I thought of Hungary and would be very offended if I didn't reply that it's the best country in the world. I told the boy "They are the most beautiful women in the world!" and made an hourglass gesture with my hands and wolf-whistled for good measure. I think it satisfied him.

The Royal Palace on the Danube River - Budapest, Hungary
Like South Africa, the people are incredibly warm, though maybe not as curious about me. The people have a simplicity about them with an underlying hardness in their interactions with other people. I have noticed they have a great sense of humor. In a pub, an old man noticed a another pair leaving and said, "I hate them like a job...". When I came out of the toilet, I washed my hands and came out with my hands still moist. A man came to greet me and I wiped my hands on my pants to be polite. He laughed and said, "What? Did you piss on your hands? I do that all the time!" Then he grabbed my hand.

The Royal Palace on the Danube on drugs- Budapest, Hungary
One obvious difference is there really aren't many black people. I'd put it at about 1 out of 200 people. At least the Amsterdam airport had around 1 out of 100. When I have seen black people (about 5 total in all of Budapest, none in Vác.) I've felt the overwhelming urge to ask them, "How the hell did you get here!?" I'm really curious, but I've been able to resist... so far. They seem comfortable enough here. Marton tells me that although Hungarians like most Europeans are really racist, mostly towards neighboring Europeans, there simply aren't enough black people around for Hungarians to have formed an opinion of them. It's been complete culture shock for me. I'm used to being the palest guy on the street. Now I'm worried people might mistake me for a gypsy.
On my first night in Vác we stopped at an old-timers pub where this really drunk old man was clutching a dog in his lap. Really the place looked a lot like a shebeen in a South African township, except none of the old men sat on beer crates. The old man overheard Marton and I speaking in English and asked in Hungarian where I was from. Marton explained that I was from America and couldn't speak Hungarian, basically explaining why I'm so retarded and couldn't speak to him properly. He insisted on speaking to me in Hungarian so I started replying to him in Zulu and it just pissed him off. Then he said, "Listen to me! I live in America 45 years. Cincinnati. You son of a bitch. I fuck you! Left and right!" So much for international diplomacy.
From what I can tell, Hungarians have had it bad. Apparently Hungary is situated at the only pass between Asia and Europe that doesn't require going over a bunch of mountains, so they've been constantly invaded by a bunch of really destructive people - Huns, Turks, Austrians, Nazis, Communists, and now me. Budapest has been flattened and rebuilt at least three times. Not only that, it seems like every time someone invades the city they knock down the bridges that connect the two halves of the city. I didn't know this before I got here, but Budapest was originally two separate cities, Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube River. The only way to get from one side to the other is a bridge or a ferry. Rebuilding those bridges each time has to be really irritating. Hungarians are still pissed about the Treaty of Trianon after World War I. In central Budapest, I saw a map showing the "real" Hungary. It included big chunks of Croatia, Czechoslovakia, Romania, and Serbia. I don't think the "real" Hungary is going to exist again anytime soon, but I'm not about to tell them.

The Freedom Statue (Szabadság szobor) - Budapest, Hungary
One prominent feature of Budapest is a huge, winged statue atop the highest hill of Budapest. When I asked Marton about it he smirked as he told me, "It's called the Freedom Statue. The Soviets put it there. They called it the Freedom Statue because they freed us from the Nazis."

Protecting Saint Gellért from the Planet of the Communist Apes
Otherwise, we've been walking, bussing, trolleying, training, and subwaying our ways around Budapest. Of course I've had the occasional Jackass moment. I climbed a 300-year-old statue and urinated in public (which unlike in South Africa is not acceptable) in the presence of the police. Despite my behavior, Budapest is a very beautiful and romantic city. The narrow cobbled streets give you a cozy feeling as you walk and look at the glittering shops. I am a bit disappointed, though. I was hoping that Eastern Europe would dispel my feeling that Europe is just like America but with older buildings and all the ethnic diversity wiped clean. I got to eat Burger King yesterday. We don't have Burger King in Africa. It was crap.

Statue Sodomizing a Communist Duck
I've been looking around for gifts to get my friends in South Africa. Tumaole is a pornaholic so I've already got an idea for him. I'm hoping to find something really really gross with a title like "Hungarian Horse Humpers". It probably won't be in English, but I don't think it really matters for that kind of stuff. I did see a poster in Budapest with two girls kissing advertising a "Leszbi" something-or-other event. I was trying to read it out loud with Marton's brother in the car. His brother suggested that Marton take me to the opera instead.
At night we walked around aimlessly since the discos wouldn't open for another two hours. We decided to look for a place to rest our feet, drink a beer, and escape the cold. Walking the old narrow streets of Budapest we found a spot that was nearly empty but looked warm and had a bar. We sat ourselves down at the bar and I scanned the surroundings. It seemed like it had the potential to be lively with an interior balcony and walls painted red and a sickly pink. They played an odd mix of Madonna and Earth, Wind and Fire. As I drank my beer I asked Marton to ask the bartender what kind of place it was, if it was a club, a lounge, when the crowd would arrive. He asked and began to chuckle on the bartenders reply, "Ummm, this is a gay bar... Well, at least I know where to bring my gay friend when he comes to visit!"
The bartender began to laugh as well. I asked Marton to find out if any girls would show up at least. "No, it's Saturday. Apparently no women are allowed in on Saturdays. The bartender said girls were allowed in yesterday."
Curious, I asked Marton if there was much prejudice against gays in Hungary. He told me, "No, please, I don't even want to ask. I can tell you, they are very prejudiced against gays here."
Through Marton, the bartender asked us if we had ever been to gay bars before and then what gay bars are like in the US and Africa. Apparently the bartender began hoping that we might be bi-curious, and it made Marton a bit uncomfortable. Marton said, "I think he's hitting on me. He keeps saying 'You must try everything once.'" After we finished our drinks, the bartender said goodbye to us warmly and gave us flyers for a Halloween party and asked if we were sure we wanted to miss the transvestite show that night.

Communist Train Station
Today, we've been invited to check out a moto-cross competition in Kosd. Zoltan, a college boy we met in the street, tells us that the girls there give really good blowjobs. Zoltan pointed out a few of them in the club and they were cute. He pointed emphatically at one blonde girl saying, "See the one like Paris Hilton? She gives very good blowjob!" Kosd has a population of around 3,000. I'm counting on them being very desperate for new blood and able to ignore this little language barrier problem I have.
I think we're going to Transylvania on Tuesday, after we probably don't check out the naked muscleman show on Halloween. Maybe I'll get turned into a vampire in Transylvania. That would be cool.

Communist Phonebooth
Somehow, we're making our way to Italy to see Siya in Treviso and bumming around Venice for a couple days in the near future. I'm excited to see Siya out here. I spent the past two weeks with her in South Africa before I came out here. I'm not sure how to explain it, but she was very healing for me. She's down-to-earth and natural, though she claims to have occasional diva moments. We seem to "get" each other. I kept missing her gigs when we were hanging out, but she was performing on Saturday at Sun City at a jazz concert with Simpiwe Dana and Judith Sephuma. Siya promised to record it for me and give the DVD to me in Italy. I'd seen her perform many times before we met personally, so I'm looking forward to seeing it. When she sings a ballad, the crowd goes silent and her voice melts over them like warm butter. Hopefully, Siya can introduce us to Phillip Glass in Italy. I don't know anything about him personally, but I bet he's really weird.
"Hungary is very similar to Bulgaria. I know they're different countries." - Kevin Keegan